序:接触表这种玩意也八个年头了,一直不敢说对表非常了解;一来没财力,二来表的世界着实太大,门类太多,要玩得精而博几乎没有可能。
近年,我开始对古董怀表发生浓厚的兴趣,原因很简单:现在很多天价表就算标榜承载着传统工艺(如珐琅,高超的金雕,倒角等)作为定高价的理由,却经不起仔细推敲(通常珐琅画得没有古董的细致,金属加工工艺没有古董来得养眼)。很多所谓“平民”,“实用”的款式价位虽然并非天价,却仍然要耗上一个普通工薪族几个月甚至一整年的工资,而且仅仅是普通的大批量工业化产品而已,实用性完全比不上很多只需数十至数百美元的电子表,还容易掉链,普通的打工仔还花不起这脑筋。再者,机械表到了今天,赏玩,炫耀和话题性早已取代了原有的实用性。试想下,新表最多也就是PK一下谁面子比较大,速度比较快,价钱相对低而已;古董表,特别是古董怀表,趣味远不止这些,有年代,历史,结构,工艺,流派,品相,鉴定等话题性极佳的特质;而且,同样的价钱,古董怀表的素质(尤其是工艺)往往远胜于现代表(杜飞之流乃今日极少数,可以忽略),举个例,同样是装饰性打磨,现代表的机心上往往只有单调划一的条纹(甭管叫日内瓦纹还是格拉苏蒂纹),而哪怕是再大路的美国量产款怀表,机心上的装饰纹也是多姿多彩,编排得不落俗套,细节处理就更不在话下了:能抛光,倒角的地方毫不马虎,最起码比现代表上那单调的机械削角要来得精彩。
怀表是个大世界,光是辨认真假,鉴别品相就是个不小的课题,同时,由于很多古董怀表的品牌已经不复存在,或者已经物是人非,又因为是二手货的缘故,所以很多有新表情结或者对此道缺乏了解的表友们对古董怀表望而却步。不过这些问题在今后应该可以迎刃而解。
有些特别的功能结构或者只适用于怀表上,也只有怀表可以最大限度发挥其性能或者效果,
问表就是最明显而有力的例子之一。笔者曾经有幸听到过几位资深玩家手里的古董三问怀表的报时声,那真的是清越悠扬,醉人心神。相较之下,缩小到手表体积的问表就诊时相形见绌了
:无论是FPJ,积架还是PP,报时声要么音量不足,要么声大夹恶,总而言之就是不如人意。
另外,问表结构本来就不适合放在实用性倾向较强的手表上,因为问表结构对一块手表的三防性能(防水,防尘,防震)会造成非常负面的影响,因为表壳侧面必须开个大口子。更重要的是,一款手表只要带有问表功能,身价肯定过百万!(不包括中国表业产品和IWC这类模块化产品),而同类功能结构的古董三问怀表才索价数万至数十万(视乎品牌,结构复杂程度和品相而定);另一个比较明显的例子是工艺和用料达到最高级别的基本款怀表,众所周知,杜飞的作品,特别是名作“返璞”(simplicity),如今索价数十万人民币,只因为其工艺做到了极致。殊不知,早在1870-1940年代,欧洲,美国等地有很多品牌和制表师的作品早就做到了同样的境界,而且还成为了杜飞这类制表师的仿效对象和榜样。
试想想,古董怀表集性价比,工艺和结构优势于一身,还有其他诸多现代表无法比拟的优势,预算有限的表友为何不考虑入手古董怀表呢?
老表迷pp 发表于 2014-5-25 16:13
怀表很重要是在于收藏
没有相对多的数量和相对长的时间跨度
很难说到研究二字
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nomorewatch 发表于 2014-5-26 07:19
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nomorewatch 发表于 2014-5-26 07:19
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