COOKE & KELVEY. A VERY RARE AND HIGHLY UNUSUAL 18K GOLD, ENAMEL, RUBY AND DIAMOND-SET HUNTER CASE MINUTE REPEATING KEYLESS LEVER WATCH IN FORM OF A SNAKE'S CHARMER'S BASKET, MADE FOR THE INDIAN MARKET

SIGNED COOKE & KELVEY, CALCUTTA, NO. 13'163, CIRCA 1890

Cooke & Kelvey. A very rare and highly unusual 18K gold, enamel, ruby and diamond-set hunter case minute repeating keyless lever watch in form of a snake's charmer's basket, made for the Indian market
Signed Cooke & Kelvey, Calcutta, No. 13'163, circa 1890 
Gilt-finished fully jewelled lever movement, minute repeating on two hammers, gold cuvette, dial with stylised blue enamel numerals on translucent cream-coloured enamel over engine-turned background, translucent royal blue centre decorated with a gold compass rose, circular case decorated to resemble a basket, the front cover depicting a coiled cobra in high relief, its body decorated with diamond and ruby-set translucent red and blue champlevé enamel, emerald-set eyes, its opened mouth revealing the forked tongue, a painted multi-coloured enamel scene with tropical birds and butterflies to the back, repeating slide in the band, case numbered, cuvette signed and numbered
35 mm. diam. 

The present watch is a superb example of a so-called Indian market watch most likely made by special order and combining a minute repeating movement of comparatively small size with a highly unusual case designed to resemble a basket with a coiled cobra snake on top, paying tribute to India's long standing tradition of snake charming, all of exceptional quality.

Snake charming is believed to originate in India. Hinduism has long held serpents sacred; the Nagas relate to the reptiles. In pictures, the cobra sits poised ready to protect many of the gods. By inference, traditionally Indians tend to consider snake charmers holy men influenced by the gods. The earliest snake charmers were likely traditional healers by trade. As part of their training, they learned to treat snake bites. Many also learned proper snake handling techniques, and people called on them to remove serpents from their homes.

Snake charmers typically walk the streets holding their serpents in baskets. Once the performer finds a satisfactory location to set up, he sits cross-legged on the ground in front of the closed basket. He removes the lid and plays a flute-like instrument made from a gourd, known as a been or pungi. As if drawn by the tune, the snake eventually emerges from the container; if a cobra, it may even extend its hood.

Cooke & Kelvey was founded in Calcutta in 1857 and specialized in the retail of fine timepieces for the Indian Market, generally fitted with Swiss movements, often supplied by eminent makers such as Audemars Piguet.