瘸腿的博尔特,来看全宇宙最快陀飞轮究竟如何。
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本文选自《时间·艺术》2014年1月·增刊(总第320期)

《时间·艺术》华语圈最专业的手表杂志


原文标题:走在自己的前边


图文网络来源:

表叔王寂






TAG HEUER(豪雅)

Carrera Mikropendulums



钛金属表壳,直径45mm、鳄鱼皮表带配钛金属折叠扣,100m防水。自动机芯,直径35.8mm、厚9.82mm,75石,454个零件,24小时动力储存(开启计时功能,60分钟动力储存)。走时擒纵:摆频86,400,陀飞轮一分钟三圈;计时擒纵:摆频360,000,陀飞轮一分钟12圈。


生存还是死亡,这是个问题。今天早晨惺忪之际,媳妇问我为什么昨晚哭醒了,嚎啕大哭,问我因为什么事情。其实我什么都不记得了。值得我哭醒的事情太多。工作压力之大,好像胸口永远有吐不出的浊气。没别的办法,重任在肩,我唯有万千人吾往矣。哪怕是浓睡不消残酒的下午,你看,我现在就要赶制一篇超高难度的文章——描述瘸腿的博尔特的英姿。




我对TAG HEUER(豪雅)还是很有感情的。我平生第一遭一个人独自参观的表厂,就是TAG HEUER(豪雅)。一个人参观,真舒服啊。我记得那时是和那个叫邦的男人,夜晚坐在酒吧里,我们探讨着瑞士的禁烟的问题。我还记得第一次发布垂直砝码上弦机芯Monaco V4巴塞尔发布会,我去了,当时还意气风发的Philippe Dufour叼着略微冒烟的烟斗,而他所站的位置是禁烟的……他才不在乎呢。他是大师啊。后来的新闻图片里,细心的人可以看到我端着相机站在大师的隔壁。




每个品牌都有每个品牌的市场策略,像某个我相当喜欢的品牌做了一款表,准备上市时发现该表款的精度并未达到老板的要求和当初的设想,结果大笔一挥,该表款被打入冷宫,不许上市,重新研究为啥精度不够高。这是我非常欣赏的一例。再像TAG HEUER(豪雅)同集团的大股东LV,恒隆新店开业在即都装修做好了,结果那个法国最有钱的人来做最后视察,发现奢华程度不如他的想象,大笔一挥,不行,全砸了重做!开张日期一延再延。每个品牌都有自己的想法,所以我对TAG HEUER(豪雅)的判断也不能说是负面的:




豪雅,走在了自己的前边。




这可能是另外一种市场策略:率先占领高地,之后再慢慢推向市场。比如磁动力表,我都不记得最初推出这个概念是哪一年的事儿了。当年那个机芯那个表就放在橱窗里,我和顾甦像小偷似的研究着,保安过来了,我俩天真地请求他拿出来拍一下就行。他严肃地缓慢地很绅士地戴上黑色丝绒手套,将手伸向橱窗,我和顾甦的心都要跳出来了,哇靠他妈的找了一帮人搞不定的事情其实保安就可以解决了——那个貌像博尔特的保安大哥,用手套擦了擦玻璃——扭头幽默地对我们一笑,不肿……俺木有这个权力啊。



很多的TAG HEUER(豪雅)概念表,都是概念先行,博眼球。等人们差不多遗忘还有这码事儿的时候表陆陆续续上市了。磁擒纵表,也是如此。坦白说,它确实非常非常超前和先锋,因为以前的表款都在琢磨如何防磁——杜绝磁力对金属游丝的影响(游丝不稳定即导致走时不稳定准确),而它倒好,直接将游丝干掉了,换上了磁力“驱动”擒纵轮,磁力更加稳定,可以使摆轮以更低的摆幅和更高的摆频转动。我说这个超复杂的东东是瘸腿的博尔特,也没有贬义。因为我拿到的那只确实是瘸腿儿的。日常走时的部分,永远指向十点零六分。



它采用双擒纵,其实陀飞轮也已经只是一个概念。两个陀飞轮框架采用18K 5N红金制作,和部分指针匹配,既超前又古典奢华,两厢结合得相当不错。双向上弦自动机芯高达454个零件,因为摆频太高仅有24小时动力储存,计时只有60分钟动力。日常走时摆频是86,400,陀飞轮一分钟转三圈;计时擒纵摆频360,000,陀飞轮一分钟12圈。计时擒纵随着计时启动而转动,因为日常走时根本不动弹,所以我就只能不断在玩这个计时。计时启动和归零按动力度差不多,都有点硬。好玩的是启动计时时那个“陀飞轮”嗖嗖地转得真是快,而且伴随着“沙沙”(或者是吱吱)的好像是一般马达(电机)转动的声音,感觉非常“高科技”,官能很震撼。当然,这个机芯并没有任何电力,和石英完全无关。因为采用高科技材料表壳很轻盈,加之具有包裹弧度的造型,使得表体扣在手腕上相当舒服。如果换上针扣,可能是我戴过的最有型最舒服的TAG HEUER(豪雅)了。只是,穷困潦倒的我,还没有勇气仔细咨询它的售价。




搭配运动休闲服饰会更潇洒,哪怕它是双陀飞轮!


创意无限
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木有钱包前来学习欣赏

總聽到西行哥提起的王寂大師嗎?

DANIEL晚上好,

好久不見,近來安好,

表叔王寂,是真的那個嗎?

脸疯 发表于 2014-11-1 13:35


木有钱包前来学习欣赏
臉兄晚上好,

很久不見,十分想念,嘻嘻

我要加入你的機芯黨可以嗎,哈哈

冰冰 发表于 2014-11-11 23:39


DANIEL晚上好,

好久不見,近來安好,

是的是的

哇哦,太贊了,:P

冰冰 发表于 2014-11-11 23:40


臉兄晚上好,

很久不見,十分想念,嘻嘻

哈哈...
冰冰姐晚上好
随时欢迎加入啊:lol