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『转载』The Lange Zeitwerk Minute Repeater
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The Lange Zeitwerk Minute Repeater: Live report

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Mon, 19 January 2015 18:12



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The Zeitwerk first made its appearance as the new design language for A. Lange & Söhne in 2007, and since then has been used as a base movement for the Zeitwerk Phantom and Zeitwerk Striking Time. In this new 2015 debut, the Zeitwerk takes on a complication revered by collectors as one of the most difficult to executed and therefor deserving of the most respect.








This complication is the Minute Repeater. But as is typical for Lange, it is not enough to produce a totally classical interpretation of the minute repeater, but one with a twist to tradition, but yet totally in line with the digital time display on the dial - the striking mechanism strikes in digital fashion. In a traditional minute repeater, the striking mechanism strikes the hours, the number of quarters that have passed since the last full hour, and the minutes from the quarter. This is made to simplify the mechanism of the already complex movement required to perform the striking. In a decimal repeater, the watch strikes the hours, the number of ten minute intervals since the last full hour, and the minutes.



Pic above shows the detail on the dial, showing the hammers which takes design cues from the Time Bridge. Note the exposed gongs, allowing the one to see the strikes as it happens.





The concept of the decimal repeater is not new. Kari Voutilainen was the first to incorporate this in his line of several piece unique
Decimal Repeaters. Most modified from pocket watch repeater movements with traditional striking mechanism. In SIHH 2014, Jaeger LeCoultre released the Hybris Mechanica 11, which also featured a decimal repeater.







As the base is the Zeitwerk, the movement, caliber L043.5 features the remontoir d'égalité,
and is extremely well finished. The movement is reminiscent of the original L043.1, but with a longer remontoir bridge, and a more elaborate finish for the mainspring barrels.





The photo above shows the bridge under which resides the remontoir mechanism. This bridge is longer and more elaborate than the original Zeitwerk bridge as in caliber L043.1



Movement finishing is typical Lange standard, with all the decorative finishing done par excellence
. Our only very minor wishlist which is not totally fulfilled in the movement has more to do with the design and stylistic elements rather than in the execution of the finnisage
. In particular, we would have preferred that the internal angles on the bridge openings be sharply finished instead of rounded. We note, however that the anglage is done to perfection, leaving one breathless as one gazes into the movement...the anglage gleaming as it catches the light.





The bridge holding one of the regulators for the activation mechanism for the repeater. This is the heart of the safety system which prevents the watch from being wound when the repeating mechanism is activated. It also prevents the digital display from advancing while the watch is striking. As it takes 1 minute 20 seconds for the maximum number of strikes to occur at 12:59, this prevents the display from advancing to 1:00, and ensures that the strike counts is always the same as the time displayed.



The movement features the in-house balance, as is common in all new calibers from 2004, the first being the Double Split.





The in-house manufactured balance system is used in the L043.5, as it has been a feature in all calibers since 2004.







The mainspring barrel cover is now more elaborately decorated than in the original Zeitwerk.
As the time keeping functions share the same barrel with the striking mechanism, an additional precaution, the watch is blocked from its striking function when the power reserve falls below 12 hours.





The transmission wheels from the winding crown to the mainspring barrels are beautifully finished.







Although the dimensions suggest a large watch, it is rather comfortable on the wrist.


猫头鹰问表远比看起来牛逼的多！

今年的表王。价錢也不簡單

朗格终于有三问了。不鸣则已，一鸣惊人

zwyk 发表于 2015-1-21 22:55

今年的表王。价錢也不簡單

绝对是

reverie 发表于 2015-1-21 23:45


绝对是
表王好呀，买不起不闹心

可能等2年。全都等。

七爷厉害 期待七爷的作业啊 真心好表

On7 发表于 2015-1-22 00:24


可能等2年。全都等。
要等那么久啊～～～～～～

低调男人！ 发表于 2015-1-22 05:20


七爷厉害 期待七爷的作业啊 真心好表
姚哥来一个，我是真心搞不起

虽然这枚不同于去年那款1815大复杂藏于天界，但猫头鹰三问仍然高高在上。我就看看

cai58345 发表于 2015-1-22 09:56


虽然这枚不同于去年那款1815大复杂藏于天界，但猫头鹰三问仍然高高在上。我就看看 ...
同看

来膜拜一下。。。

德国表又一次领先

大伙要不要我做做翻译？要的话尽管开口，谢谢

nomorewatch 发表于 2015-1-22 13:39


大伙要不要我做做翻译？要的话尽管开口，谢谢
需要闹兄

翻译：




朗格猫头鹰三问表：实况报告




“猫头鹰”在2007年初次亮相的时候，就已经为朗格这个品牌树立了一个全新的美学语言, 而猫头鹰的机心则被用作后来在猫头鹰原始版本基础上开发出的“幽灵”（即夜光跳字款）及报时自鸣款的基础机心. 在2015年的新款亮相巡礼中, 猫头鹰家族的新成员添加了一个一向都是被业界列为最高难度的复杂功能结构，同时也是一项被众多收藏家追捧和尊崇的钟表结构.


这一复杂功能结构就是三问（报时，报十分钟，报分钟）. 对朗格而言，光是做出一款原汁原味地复制前人设计和技术的结构是完全不会满足自己的标准和格调的，因此新的作品以猫头鹰这样一款时分以一条直线上平行排列的跳字表作为基础也就不足为奇了. 更重要的是,传统的三问表的报时方式只能用两个音锤（或者更多）报15分钟，而把报时程序改为十进制的话，就变成报时，报十分钟，报分钟这样的程序，更符合现代人的时间观念.


上图充分显示了表盘一面的细节, 音锤和音簧的形状都是根据表盘的几何空间特性重新设计的.




实际上，十进制三问功能这个概念并不算是新鲜（早在法国大革命时期就已经有十进制的百分两问表了，时任法国革命政府采用一百分钟制）. 芬兰独立制表人卡里维特莱能（Kari Voutilainen）则是第一位把十进制结构融入到三问表的表匠，并作出了好几款十进制三问手表（都是孤品，价位在当时的百余万港币）. 卡里的这些三问手表作品的机心基本都是取材自百余年前来自瑞士猪猡山谷地区出产的小口径传统三问怀表基础机心. 2011年，精工集团旗下的高端品牌贵朵（Credor）推出了以机械动力石英调速机心（即所谓的Spring Drive）为基础的十进制三问手表（索价350，000美金）在2014年度的SIHH, 历峰集团的技术武器库积架（Jaeger LeCoultre） 发表了复杂程度难有敌手的超复杂表款“超级机械熔炉11号”（Hybris Mechanica 11）, 此款表也带有十进制三问功能.


由于基础是猫头鹰跳字机心（编号为L043.5），因此带有恒定动力装置（remontoir d'égalité）, 而且修饰工艺绝对是出类拔萃的（朗格的所有作品虽然都在出厂前经过二次组装和加工调试，但只有猫头鹰家族的表款是每一只都由同一个制表师/表匠跟进整个组装，调校和精加工工序的）. 这款机心与原始版本机心（编号为L043.1）基本相同, 但是新款的恒定动力装置的固定桥板更长，而且主发条盒的修饰更美观.


上面的图片展示了恒定动力结构及其周边的夹板. 机心的修饰水平绝对是典型的朗格标准水平
, 而且所有的修饰性打磨哪怕在朗格品牌及同档次品牌的作品里都是出类拔萃的. 我们唯一对此机心觉得不如人意的地方跟工艺没有一点关系，倒是跟这款机心的设计和美学语言有关系（其实就是个人偏好问题）. 具体点说, 我们（这里指笔者及其圈子）会更倾向于让表匠把夹板的内倒角修饰得更锐利一些，而非如此圆润. 然而，我们也注意到, 这款机心的倒角抛光修饰已经做到极致了，遇光反射出的那种光泽是何等的令人窒息.


上图中的轮系正是用来问表结构的调速器——这一结构可以预防在启动问表结构时的作用力伤害机心，除了这一传统功能，这个装置也可以在腕表报时的时候阻止跳字系统跳时跳分. 举个例子，当此表报12：59的时候，全程耗时达80秒（即1分20秒），这个调速装置在这时候就可以阻止腕表在报时的同时跳到1点钟，以确保腕表所报的时间与跳字结构显示的时间一致.




这款机心装备了朗格自家设计生产的摆轮，这款摆轮自2004年问世起, 就被装备在包括分钟秒钟分段计时表（即很多人熟知的“双双追”）在内的所有新款，当然，“双双追”是第一款装备这款摆轮的表款.



主发条盒（其实全表就只有这一个发条盒）的发条盖比起原版更美观更精致.

由于表款的走时部分和报时部分共用一个发条盒（和FPJ问表/自鸣表的思路同出一辙），朗格的工程师在机心内增加了一个闸停装置，在机心动力不足12小时的时候，会锁定报时装饰从而确保表款的运行.

传动轮系的零件尽管不起眼，厂家花在他们身上的功夫也绝不马虎.

尽管这表尺寸很大, 戴在手上依然很舒适（注：原文作者是新加坡收藏家，亚裔）.






辛苦闹闹

京城小六子 发表于 2015-1-22 13:40

需要闹兄

你！太不厚道啦！很花时间的

谢谢闹闹，大概看明白了

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